Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 6 - Pilot and Pilot Deck
Section 6 - Pilot and Pilot Deck
Completed! The Pilot (front of engine) and Front Truck. Sheetmetal work for the pilot deck started Jan 2012.

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 17-Sept-2013 The installed coupling lever.  15-Sept-2013 Another view of the bending rig for the coupling lever.  15-Sept-2013 Bending the coupler release lever in a rigged-up bending jig. Two dowel pins serve as bending points, a piece of pipe on top keeps them from spreading apart, c-clamp to stop the wire from rotating and a piece of square channel as the bending arm.  9-Feb-2012 The fnished eye bolt installed on the modified front coupler. A touch of paint will finish it.  9-Feb-2012 Relieving the hole to help form the rounded eye bolt.  9-Feb-2012 Milling the ball flat to form the eye  9-Feb-2012 After some work with the lathe running at low speed and a file, I have a ball!  6-Feb-12 Finished the night fabricating an eyebolt for the coupler pin. First step was to turn and thread a 5-40 bolt end.  Using Marv Klotz's simple program  6-Feb-12 Machining the front support lip to fit the SuperScale coupler.  Although we centered the rotary table under the spindle, and centered the coupler pocket on the coupler pin hole (which is where the lip radius comes from), we failed to move over and indicate the angle plate and make sure it was true to the x-axis (front to back).  So even though the part revolved around the couple pin hole correctly, it was crooked to the cutting plane and ended taking more off one side of the lip than the other.  6-Feb-12 The coupler will not go deep enough into the pocket wih the as-cast support lip.  We have to remove some of the lip.  With an angle block bolted to the rotary, the coupler pocket is centered under the spindle around the coupler pin hole.  6-Jan-12 The rotary table is put back on to machine the front lip of the couple pocket.  Here we are centering the table under the spindle.  6-Feb-12 Custom fitting the SuperScale coupler to the RR Supply coupler pocket.  With a center-punched wooden plug in the pin hole, we scribe a line just under 3/4  6-Feb-12 Enlarging the coupler pin hole to 5/16  6-Feb-12 Here's something I had not planned on doing - removing the front copyler pocket from the pilot bumper.  The locktite on the screws worked, it was had to remove them.  4-Feb-2012 Modifying the Superscale coupler to fit the RR Supply front coupler pocket.  Machining off the two ears flush with the body.  30-Jan-12 The problem of waiting so long to finish this section: with the pilot truck assembled and installed, there is no way for me to get my fingers under the frame to loosen the bolts the bracket will mount to. I end up removing the pilot truck pivot bolts, sliding the bracket down but not removing the truck because all the suspension is still connected.  30-Jan-12 A picture of 'not everything goes to plan'.  The original holes in the brackets were spot on, but due to some  22-Jan-12 Footboards and brackets ready for bending.  I spent some time trying to figure out what the flat dimentions of the brackets were, in the end my metal bending skills rendered any calculations useless!  Also useless, it turns out, are the two footboards.  After drilling them I went to bend them only to discover I cut them to their folded length, omitting the step from the flat layout.  Oh well, practice makes perfect.  19-Jan-12 Trimming the front angled parts of the deck.  I calculated the angle to be 12 degrees.  I unlocked the swivel base on my vise, swung it to 12 degrees and cut the part to size. A simple thing to next unlock the vise and swing around to the other side.  19-Jan-12 Trimming the end of the deck to size.  19-Jan-12 One ugly setup. I almost didn't publish this, but here's what it comes down to: The sheet metal was clamped down across the vice, the vice was not actually closed since I had to make a cut right where it would be putting clamping pressure.  Lacking a foot shear or metal notcher, I mill the pilot deck profile out of the stock.   19-Jan-12 Using a boring head/flycutter combination to enlarge the hole to size.  19-Jan-2012 Having finished drilling all the small holes, and re-clamping the setup so I don't drill holes in the vise, I use my favorite quick and dirty method for drilling a large pilot hold beofore boring to size: a bi-metal hole saw. I drill on the slowest backgear speed, with cutting oil, and manually engage the downfeed to keep even pressure.  19-Jan-2012 I have covered a piece of 16 ga (1/16  6-Sept-09 Using a 5 degree tapered end mill, we bevel the bracket pivot hole to allow more vertical motion without enlarging the center bore of the hole. (No additional back-forth play introduced.)  25-July-07 A tough setup: the cast iron tube pilot.  25-July-07 Drilling the front coupler pocket pin hole.  25-July-07 Drilling the front coupler pocket.  1-Aug-07 Another uncoupler lever coupler bracket done, seven to go...  1-Aug-07 Using a stop rod for the vice so we can 'mass produce' eight uncoupler lever brackets. Once we set the X and Y zeros, drilling the four holes per part was quick work.  1-Aug-07 The Flagstand held by the back of the chuck jaws so we can drill and counterbore. This setup allowed us to keep the same chucking as when we turned the bottom (now inside the chuck) and maintain some sense of centering the part.  1-Aug-07 Bill shows me yet another setup for holding parts.  In this case, we need to turn the flagstand, but the lantern bracket on the side of the flagstand made it impossible to chuck conventionally.  Solution: use the 6-jaw, remove three jaws and put the bracket inbetween to of the jaws.  Why not use the 3-jaw? My 6-Jaw is an 'Adjust-Tru' chuck, we can move it around in case the casting is off center.  11-July-07 The finished bumper on the frame.  11-July-07 With the top done, we indicate the back as straight as we can with the casting to drill the holes in this end.  11-July-07 Picking up the centerline from the previous machining steps.  11-July-07 Finishing the bumper top. Bill picks up the reference point the drawing specifies with the wiggler.  The ole' C-clamp vise works again.  Squaring up the angle plate to machine the bottom of the front bumper.  We have to use the angle plate because the top of the bumper is unmachined, but the front and back surfaces are so the back reference surface will be bolted to the angle plate.  We will use two large parallels to set the machined bumper tabs on and insure the bumper is parallel to the table.  The front is finished.  Indicating the top surface before drilling the coupler pocket bolt holes.  With a machined reference surface on the back, we put some spacers on the table and machine the coupler pocket surface parallel to it.  Drilling and tapping the bumper mounting holes.  Machining the back, but only within the top tabs which will cover the front frame spreader contact surface.  Due to the draft in the casting (taper), we decided to make the top surface the square reference point. Here Bill adjusts the casting for the back operations.  3-July-07 We start on the front bumper beam.  Bill and I look at the print and it only calls for the little square tabs to be finished machined.  Now I can't believe the bumper-to-front frame spreader contact point, and the coupler pocked mount point wouldn't be machined, but the print only indicates a raw casting-to-machined surface contact.  We also don't know how we are supposed to hold this part as we drill and tap holes in the top, bottom, front and back without any machined reference surfaces.  We decide to machine the contact sufaces which we will use for holding the casting in the difference orientations.  The pilot wheels under the frame! Yea - another milestone!  27-June-07 Anti-chatter setup we used when turning the wheel profile. The bolt is actually the driving dog stud, the white is a piece of rubber squeezed with the machinist clamp against the clamp on the wheel. The rubber was one of two shipping blocks in a new ceiling fan to keep the motor from moving until installation.  Looks unsafe, but we were turning in back gear the slowest my lathe could go.  23-May-07 A trial assembly of the pilot truck! We still have to turn the wheels to profile and finish-weld the bracket arms.  With the brackets bent, we can now accurately locate the second hole.  Putting the second bent in the bracket. The yellow pipe we are using as a bender is actually a handle for the floor jack.  Heating the large upper bracket for bending.  Bending the brackets.  For the smaller lower ones we just used vice-grips to hold them. The big machinist vice is clamped down on the antique Knight drill press.  The pilot truck brackets have been heated and bent. Here they are cooling off.  23-May-07 After soaking in a 250 degree oven for a bit, the wheels are pressed on the axle.  Here they are cooling down on the weld-r-que.  finish facing the backside. You can see the casting on the back is offset from the front, which because of the first chucking setup runs true.  An obscured shot of the boring operation.  We tried for a 0.001  Drilling the axle hole, undersize  Facing the backside  Third chucking. The wheel is turned around, indicated for true.  After turning the face and O.D., a quick check of the size.  Checking the runout on the second chucking. Since this is a 'adjust-tru' six-jaw chuck, we can  center the wheel within a couple of thou.  16-May-07 Steps to machine the pilot wheels. This is the second chucking. In the first chucking the front of the wheel was held and the back rough turned. Most importantly, the boss on the back was turned for chucking in this second step.  9-May-07. Aah. Lathe Work again as we turn the pilot truck axle.
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