Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 17 - Tender Trucks
Section 17 - Tender Trucks
Usable! Tender Trucks. 2014 - The trucks have been finished, assembled and painted enough to be runable. We did not design and fabricate the dozens of small parts to put operation brakes on them. We will do that later. Happy to report the trucks work great and have not given any issue running over the track. July 2013 Axle box machining in progress. June 2013 Back from being welded into a contiguous piece, Bill finished the machining of the Frames. Construction Started December 2012! I picked up a set of 3-axle commonwealth trucks in November 2008 which I will use instead of the supplied USRA bettendorfs. One problem: the homemade castings do not have an engineering print with them. I had to make prints and Bill had to figure out how to machine them.

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 14-Apr-2014 A coat of black paint is slathered on before assembly.  13-Apr-2014 The aluminum truck frames are painted with special primer.  13-Apr-2014 The aluminum truck frames are painted with special primer.  12-Apr-2014 Time for paint! The wheel sets are primered.  15-Feb-2014 The end of one nights work: nearly assembled truck ready to be flipped over for its first test roll.  15-Feb-2014 Axle boxes with lubricated bearings installed on the axles. Due to the machining variations resulting in different amounts of press on the bushings and squeeze on the bearings, we have to hunt around to find the best fitting axle/axleblock-bearing combination.  15-Feb-2014 Pressing the bearings into the axle boxes. Bill turned a piece of stock for the press guide.  15-Feb-2014 After a trial installation of the springs, we decide they are too compressed in the unloaded state. The truck frames are bolted to the mill table again and the spring pockets are milled another 1/4  15-Feb-2014 We turn 12 brass thrust washers and install them on the axles. We did not want to have the steel wheel rubbing on the steel axle box as the wheels slide left and right on the track.  3-Feb-2014 The finished bolster ready for assembly  3-Feb-2014 The kingpin is turned to size.  3-Feb-2014 The bottom of the bolster is counterbored so the kingpin binding nut does not interfere with the axle.  3-Feb-2014 The kingpin pocket is bored.  3-Feb-2014 We start enlarging the center hole for the 1-3/4  1-Feb-2014 Drilling a spot for the set screw anchor in the axle box cover castings. Note the vise stop is not on the stub end of the casting but the reference machined surface back cover. The stubs were not machined to size since they will be cut off to length in another operation.  1-Feb-2014 Drilling and tapping the set screw hole for the axle box cover castings.  27-Jan-2014 Finished axles with wheels and bearing sleeves pressed on.  25-Jan-2014 With months of creating parts, it's nice to do assembly. We have pressed on a hardened thin drill sleeve onto the end of the axle. This gives the bearings a precision ground surface to run on instead of the softer turned axle.  We have to remember to press the sleeve on the correct way -- one end is slightly tapered to allow the bearing to start.  20-Jan-2014 Wheels pressed on axles! Despite our best efforts, equipment and machining variabilities result in wheel bores which vary by +- 0.0015 from each other, and axles with similar variations.  We do our best to mix and match wheels to axles for the best fits.  18-Jan-2014 With the axle inserted into the chuck against the spindle stop, we the axle down to the bearing diameter, cutting the length until we bump against the carriage stop. Once this end is complete, we loosen the chuck, pull the part out and turn it around, repeating the turning operation without have to stop and measure or set everything up again.  18-Jan-2014 Two completed axles, four to go!  18-Jan-2014 The spindle stop installed on the lathe.  This allows us to chuck up parts in the lathe reapeatably.  When the part is put into the chuck, it is instered into the spindle hole until it bumps against the stop. We use this to machine tender axles to length without having to stop and measure each one each time.  18-Jan-2014 Not a part for the locomotive, but an accessory for the lathe - a spindle stop.  18-Jan-2014 You would think I'd have this all figured out by now, but sure enough, the draftsman (me) made a dimensional error on the wheel spacing. Fortunately for me, Bill's 50 years of experience caught the error after machining one axle. We make a reference gauge to check the back-to-back wheel dimensions.  11-Jan-2014 Progress! 5 of 6 covers machined, nearly enough for one truck.  11-Jan-2014 Turning operation in progress on the 12 Axle box cover castings  4-Jan-2014 Axle box cover with turned stub and O-ring groove.  Cutting the groove required grinding a special tool to cut next to the stub and into the cover casting. The stub will be cut to lenght in another operation, and a pocket drilled to receive a set screw which will hold the cover in the axle box.  4-Jan-2014 Trial fitting of the cover in the box. The axle box cover stub is a good fit into the bored hole in the axle box.  4-Jan-2014 Bill begins turning down the 12 Axle box cover castings. There is very little of the casting to hang onto in the 4-jaw chuck, and determining the center of the turning, which is not the center of the casting adds to the challenge.  4-Jan-2014 Bill begins turning down the 12 Axle box cover castings  16-Dec-2013 Top view of bolster with the bolster travel limit blocks installed on the frame. You can also see the rub plates installed on the side of the bolster which prevent the bolster from moving front to back. The as-cast design would allow the rub pads (bosses on the frame spreaders) to interfere with the bolster, causing binding problems.  16-Dec-2013 The bolster travel limit blocks installed on the frame and the corresponding slot cut in the Bolster Swing Link Extension Blocks, assembled for evaluation. The stops prevent the bolster from hitting the brake rigging, but we do not know if it allows enough practical travel for on-track operations. The only way to find out is when we run it on the rail!  16-Dec-2013 With the stop blocks installed, we have to figure out how big a slot to cut in the Bolster Swing Link Extension Block to set the amount of travel.  16-Dec-2013 The frame spreaders with a close fitting slot for the stop blocks and tapped 10-24 holes  16-Dec-2013 The frame spreaders with a close fitting slot for the stop blocks and tapped 10-24 holes  16-Dec-2013 Counterboring the stop blocks  16-Dec-2013 Drilling and counter-boring the stop blocks. Again, the vise stop is employed for this multi-step operation.  16-Dec-2013 Having discovered the bolster could travel side to side and interfere with the brake rigging, we have to design a stop into the bolster motion to limit the travel. We decide to put the stops on the frame spreaders with a corresponding space in the Bolster Swing Link Extension Blocks. Bill lays out where the bolt holes should go in the frame.  9-Dec-2013 Drilling and counter-sinking the Bolster Swing Link Extension blocks.  9-Dec-2013 Side view of the Bolster Swing Link Extension blocks bolted to the bottom of the bolster.  9-Dec-2013 End view of he Bolster Swing Link Extension blocks bolted to the bottom of the bolster. The swing links will touch the left and right side of the extensions, you can see how far away the bolster casting is which is why we added the blocks. There is no connecting pin which could bridge that gap without bending/breaking.  9-Dec-2013 The Bolster Swing Link Extension blocks bolted to the bottom of the bolster.  9-Dec-2013 The finished 10-24 holes in the bolster.  9-Dec-2013 Sometimes a pencil and paper drawing will suffice. Here Bill has laid out the bolt hole pattern for the bolster swin link plate.  9-Dec-2013 Drilling and tapping the bolt holes in the bottom of the bolster  7-Dec-2013 After machining away the bottom of the bolster casting, it is much smaller and lighter, at least for now.  7-Dec-2013 We have been pondering for some time how to overcome an design gap with the cast bolster. The bolster is smaller than the position of swing links which have to attach to it by a full inch on either side. We decide we will bolt a plate to the bottom of the bolster wich will extend out to reach the links. The requires reducing the bolster height by 1-1/4  7-Dec-2013 With the ends machined and the vise at the limit of its 6  7-Dec-2013 Checking the overall width of the bolster with a 6  7-Dec-2013 Using the previously cut center boss as a reference, we true up the side ends of the bolster.  7-Dec-2013 Castings can be a pain to work with -- All the cuts are relative to each other. In this case, what is the reference surface we should use to measure all other cuts from? Also, we do not exactly konw what the finished dimensions should be, so it is a bit of a guess. We take light truing cuts on the end rub pads and a cut on the center pedestal boss.  27-Nov-2013 Finished binders. On the drawing I created, the center portion is machined away to allow for more axle box travel. Bill wanted to captivate the ends of the binders to prevent them from moving, so he only cut a slot to closely fit the boss on the end of the binders.  27-Nov-2013 Our only blueprint for the brake rigging is an entry from the 1922 edition of  27-Nov-2013 Interference and motion check with bolster, axle, wheels and brake mechanism. This is a complicated little space and we have no prints go guide us.  25-Nov-2013 The slot in the binders has ben machined, next to drill clearance hole for the binder screws.  25-Nov-2013 A question sent out to the Live Steam Forum on The HomeMachinist BBS -- Which hole should we use to get the best bolster swing motion. We spent several hours puzzling over this.  11-Nov-2013 Machining the binders in a familiar set up for multi-operation steps -- A stop in the vise to locate each part in the same place.   18-Nov-2013 With the truck on it's back, and with another set of test holes drilled in the swing links we are much happier with the way the bolster moves. We are able to move from side to side and have the links reach the limit of their travel in their pockets, the up and down movement on top is much reduced, the bolster cannot go so far as to interfere with the wheels. We think by moving the holes in the bolster a little further apart, we will be able to limit the side to side travel of the bolster such that it will not crash into the brake rigging (not built yet).  11-Nov-2013 Looking at the swing links. We are trying to figure out how far apart the bolster link holes should be compared to the frame holes. We drill the other bolster holes to be much closer to the frame holes to see what difference it makes. We find the bolster tilts more with the wider holes, but seems to take much more force to move side to side. It doesn't feel right.   11-Nov-2013 We have made one set of temporary swing links, and drilled 1/4  4-Nov-2013 With the bolster machined so it fits into the truck frame, I get to see how the frame might sit on the frame. I really can't tell though, because I don't know the actual ride height of the bolster.  4-Nov-2013 Using the fly cutter to cut the rub pads to size. Goal is to have the pads on the other side (in the picture, they are on the bottom on the table) equal thickness so the bolster is centered, and overall the width is 1/32
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