Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 14 - Boiler Accessories
Section 14 - Boiler Accessories
Close to being Finished! Boiler Accessories. Need to make a turret cover, mount the dynamo, add reach rods for the blowdowns. 2015 We take the jacketing off again to mount the running boards, and lag part of of the boiler. 2014 - Frisco top-mounted air tanks. July 2012 - boiler Jacketing. April 2011 - Fire door completed, installed. Maybe the fire pan is really finished this time! Fire pan modified, completed, for a square burner and damper assembly Feb 2011. Fire pan modified, completed, for a larger atomizer opening in fall 2010. The fire pan was started Jan 2010, completed May 2010. Plumbing the burner in Jan-2012.

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 18-Apr-2015 Freshly painted jacketing re-installed. Tapped nuts have been welded to the inside to mounth the running boards and insulation added to the boiler.  18-Apr-2015 Freshly painted jacketing re-installed. Tapped nuts have been welded to the inside to mounth the running boards and insulation added to the boiler.  18-Apr-2015 The heavy gauge jacketing is pain to wrestle into place. Lots of ratchet straps and rags to minimize paint damage were used to reinstall the jacketing.  18-Apr-2015 Re-installing the jacketing. We added mineral wool insulation to the second and third courses where there was the most room. There is only 3/16  18-Apr-2015 Re-installation of the boiler jacketing. We had to cut holes for the whistle fitting, a crown sheet washout plug, and repaint.  17-Apr-2014 The air tanks in their newly installed brackets. Also plainly visible: brushed paint vs. sprayed paint. Brushed paint, even from the same manufacturer, is darker than sprayed. Also visible, red primer coat in the thin paint spots. I am rushing the install of the tanks and sacrifice the paint job to get the engine out for the first fire-up.  14-Apr-2014 After having the cab and jacketing off the engine over the winter, it's nice to see it going back together again.  14-Apr-2014 Brass pipe cut to length for the air cooler on a Frisco engine.  7-Apr-2014 Wrestling the middle tapered course back onto the boiler with ratch flat straps after cutting square holes in the jacket to expose the standoff pads for the air tank brackets.  17-Mar-2014 Making a new throttle handle in stainless steel.  The throttle felt like it had too much slop in it, after looking at the motion it appears the as-cast square hole was not very square at all, allowing lots of movement.  This new handle helped improve things.  7-Oct-2013 Milling grooves in the top of the air tank bracket to hold the air pipes which are in between the two tanks.  September 2013 After pulling the fire out, We have been using a wick dipped in oil, lighting the wick, putting it in the firebox and re-opening the oil valve. Then dropping the wick on the ground and putting the fire out with our boots.  A very time consuming process.  The firepan has a provision for a sparkplug ignition system, but I never had a way to make the spark.  A friend of Bill's,  30-Sept-2013 ?Why a picture of a dirty burner you might ask? Well, we found that after hard running with the oil valve open, then throttling down to a pilot flame caused problems - we could not re-increase the oil amount, no matter how much we opened the oil valve.  We think the burner is getting very hot under heavy firing, causing the oil to carbon/soot up right at the outlet when the oil is turned down.  Since the oil is gravity fed, re-opening the oil valve does not push the carbon/soot away.  We start the habit of blowing air through the burner before starting in the morning, and decide to add a steam blow-back valve like the prototype had so we can clean away the soot when needed.  I also think the pulling the burner out further of the  firepan may help, but that requires pulling the firepan and re-welding brackets.  23-Sept-2013 In a rush to get the brackets ready and mount the air tanks on the engine before taking it out in public view, Bill takes the brackets home to drill and tap the tie down straps. The keystock I used had hardened from the heat of the TIG welder and it takes five drill bits and three taps, even after re-heating them to cherry to complete the operation. We have to machine away part of one bracket with the broken tap and weld a new piece on.  We have spent over 18 man-hours on these brackets, much to my amazement.  16-Sept-2013 Standoff pads are welded to the boiler. We plan to match drill and tap the holes into the pads from the bracket feet, after the jacketing is installed.  Later we discover this is not the best plan as we drilled holes in the jacketing and missed the pads. We will have to come up with a better way.  15-Sept-2013 After some frustrating time with the TIG welder, the feet and mounting pads are welded on.  15-Sept-2013 The brackets after machining, with the two air tanks on the right. Next the mounting feet and bolt-down pieces need to be installed.  14-Sept-2013 We open a pocket in the center to lighten the appearance of the brackets. The prototype brackets are separate cast pieces, but we make them one-piece to add some strength to the assembly.  14-Sept-2013 Bill uses a bore gage to verify the holes are three inches in diameter, which match the air tank diameters.  9-Sept-2013 With sacrificial board underneath, we step through a succession of boring tools and then boaring heads in the boaring head to machine out the 3  9-Sept-2013 Since the centerlines of both brackets are identical, the pieces are stacked onto each other and locating using pins. Next I tack welded both plates together for machining.  9-Sept-2013 Cardboard templates made and key locations pin punched onto 1/8  2-Sept-2013 Left air tank rought machined, right one finished.  2-Sept-2013 I work on creating templates for the air tank brackets.  The tanks are mounted on top of the boiler, not underneath like most roads.  31-Aug-2013 My poor little Clausing seady rest has a maximum capacity of 2-7/8  31-Aug-2013 Bill starts machining the decorative air tanks.  On the Frisco, the tanks had bell end swedged inside the tank, held in place by druching down the ends of the tank.  31-Aug-2013 After machining and a little scraping with a bastard file, none of the lead will interfere with the jacketing when we flip it right side up.  31-Aug-2013 The 'one more little pour' of lead created a mound of lead which would interfere with the jacketing, so a ball mill and the slowest speed in back gear cleans things up. It also validates our idea of using an anchor plate to hold the lead in place as the lead broke free from the sides of the casting and could rotate every so slightly. If the anchor plate was not there, the lead would fall right out.  31-Aug-2013 Two 14  27-Aug-2013 Weighing the casting filled with lead - 19.2 pounds. The cast iron dome itself weight about 10 pounds, meaning I only poured 9 pounds of lead. I am surprised, I thought it would be much heavier.  26-Aug-2013 Leaving the sand dome filled with lead to cool, we modify and silver solder the handrail stantions I purchased to a length apropriate for a Frisco engine.  26-Aug-2013 Thinking it might help to pre-heat the casting, and to more safely contain any possible spills, I put the casting in a bed of dry sand, in a tray, on the grill which was turned to High.  19-Aug-2013 I want to pour lead into the sand dome, but worry that it will not stick to the cast iron casting. So, using the hole in the center of the casting, we tap it to a 10-24 thread, put some all-thread into it, and weld a plate to that, which is held away from casting to about the middle of the casting.  19-Aug-2013 The steam dome is chucked in the four jaw, centered using the inside of the dome for reference, and drilled in the center for mounting.  18-Aug-2013 Using a straitedge set to the correct height at both ends of the boiler, I take the flat scriber and mark the stantion positions. The straight edge is tilted to point to the centerline of the boiler.  After the marks are made, they finally match the calculated values.  18-Aug-2013 I go back to the drawing board and figure out the actual handrail stantion mount points for each course of jacketing.  18-Aug-2013 Fourth attempt to mark where the handrail stantions go on the jacketing. This time I will use a straitedge and flat scriber for the marks.  15-Aug-2013 After two unsuccessful rounds of using the scriber to mark the handrail positions, I realize my problem is I have not adjusted for the different jacketing diameters for each course. Also, my measurements are based on the final handrail position away from the jacketing, not the handrail stantion mount point. So I try running a string down the length of the boiler as if it was the handrail. Thinking I could then use a marker to spot the stantion points over the string. This does not work because the angle of the marker changes where the spot on the jacketing ends up. I need to hold the marker to point to the centerline of the boiler to make this idea work, so I scrap this attempt too.  15-August-2013 Based on measurements from the SLSF 4100 erecting card print, I begin locating the handrail positions. The turns out to be the start of a small saga. Attempt #1 uses the height gage and scriber, as measured from the rail head. After making all the marks, I can look down the jacketing and see that the handrail marks do not line up. I think the problem is because the scriber is not level but angled up, so I readjust it to level and go around again and make new marks. It is still not correct.  12-August-2013 We continue fitting and fussing with each course of jacketing until we get everything to fit, including the boiler bands. We needed to use nylon ratchet straps to help clamp them down, we wonder how much of a problem this will be after we paint them. We also wonder how we will line each course up again after we put the handrails on.  29-July-2013 After much fussing, we have a nice neat fit at the seam of the upper and lower pieces.  29-July-2013 The first course of jacketing fits nicely after we removed the boiler mounting pads for the sand dome. Now we have to figure out how to anchor the dome. No, it will not be a wing nut! I weld a nut to the boiler, and with some allthread temporarily hold it in place so I can drill holes through the apron of the dome to through the jacketing. We will bolt the dome to the jacketing.  22-July-2013 We spend the better part of one evening fitting the first course. We had a lot of trouble getting the top piece to sit down snugly on the boiler. We discover the boiler standoff pads which I welded to the boiler to anchor the sand dome actually stuck up and interferred with the jacketing. Quick work with the cutoff saw removed the pads and solved that problem.  A proper throttle handle was free-hand turned on the lathe.  Jacket sheet #1 needed some one inch holes in it for the check valves, so I grabbed the electircal knockout tool for some easy holes.  20-Aug-2012 Tonight I made on the paper stencils for the jacketing courses 1,2 and 3. After this I taped them to the 16 gauge sheet metal and cut them to rough size with the power hand shear.  20-Aug-2012 How I laid out the third transition course of jackting.  Start with some old posters taped to the floor, use a four foot carpenters square to line things up and use the tape measure with a pencil taped on the back to swing the 134-17/64  4-Aug-2012 Boiler jacketing bands are welded up.  4-Aug-2012 With dozens of paper strips taped to the frame, the profile of the jacketing is outlined. Next up: remove the frame, lay it flat on the bench on top of the the cab front and trace the outline of the opening.  4-Aug-2012 How to match the actual jacketing curve so you can cut out the cab front: dozens of slips of paper. With a wood frame stationary over the boiler, tape paper strips to the wood when they just touch the jacket. repeat until you have worked your way around the area you want to describe.  30-July-2012  Trial fitting of the jacket.  30-July-2012 The rear jacket was a bit of a challenge due to the compound curve at the end closest to the steam dome. The sides of the jacketing are straight in the back, but rounded to fit the boiler curve up front. After rolling the top half of the jacket, I put the sheet metal in the roller diagnally, matching the diagnal dotted line.  30-July-2012 Rolling the rear sheet  28-July-2012 With a paper template made from the drawings and notes made about  30-Jan-12 Not a duplicate picture of the burner.  After studying plumbing diagram some more, and looking at the atomizer control valve with a 3/16  12-Jan-12 Cut little feller, aint he? the burner with the plumbing fittings on either side.  12-Jan-12 Plumbing up the steam atomizer line with 1/4  12-Jan-12 A new hole for the steam line.  16-Jan-12 After installing the burner we have changed our minds about how to route the plumbing and not have both the oil and steam lines on the same side. A plug is made for the steam side.  10-Jan-12 The finished piping for the water glass.  We spent the rest of the night on our elbows leaning over the plumbing drawing to figure out what to do next.  7-Jan-12  Picking the top centerline of the boiler, we locate the upper water glass fitting point and mark it for drilling.  I also used the tagboard jacket and cardboard cab front mockups to make sure I was not locating the fitting outside of the cab!  7-Jan-12 With the lower water glass valve located, we start puzzling out the upper plumbing.  2-Jan-12 Here's how the bottom of the glass is shaping up. The bottom of the _glass_ is 1/2  2-Jan-2012 A New Year and a full day in the shop. We continue working on mounting the water glass. Putting another hole in a
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