![DriveWheels5Dec07 009](thumbs/DriveWheels5Dec07%20009.jpg)
The turned flanges - note how the left side needed very little material removed, while the oversize flange on the right had a lot to make it the same size as…
![PreparingDriveWheelsForFinishTurn1Dec07 001](thumbs/PreparingDriveWheelsForFinishTurn1Dec07%20001.jpg)
1-Dec-07 Making a drive dog for the wheels. The dog is bolted to the lathe chuck. A threaded bolt will go in the hole on the right, through the spokes in the…
![DriveWheels5Dec07 001](thumbs/DriveWheels5Dec07%20001.jpg)
5-Dec-07 Measuring the Flange diameter with a 8-9" outside micrometer. The wheels as received were bigger on the left than the right by almost a quarter of an…
![DriveWheels5Dec07 002](thumbs/DriveWheels5Dec07%20002.jpg)
Turning the flanges to the same diameter in the old Rahn-Larmon lathe - note the 'lantern-post' rocker style tool holder.
![FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07 001](thumbs/FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07%20001.jpg)
8-Dec-07 We're almost done! Having turned the 3 degree taper on the tread (the main part of the wheel), we finish the wheel by putting a 10 degree taper on the…
![FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07 002](thumbs/FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07%20002.jpg)
The bluing on wheel allows us to see where the 10 degree taper is cutting, so we we don't cut too deep and gouge the tread.
![FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07 004](thumbs/FinishingtheDriveWheels8Dec07%20004.jpg)
Cutting the inside taper on the flange. We are almost done with this wheel - notice how the bluing has been removed up to the inside radius on the tread.
8-Dec-07 A classic setup in the lathe - The part held between centers insuring maximum concentricity.
A surprise under the red primer paint is uncovered - nickel fill welding. Welding on cast iron, which the wheels are made of, is not generally recommended.
1-Apr-06. The wheels are coming together. Here they are all lined up with the crank pins solidly anchored. Now it is time to press the wheels to the axles!
20-Apr-06 Wa-hoo! Check out the locomotive now! The wheels have been pressed together and put under the frame. The suspension comes to life and the size of the…
1-Mar-06 Using a depth mike to measure the thickness of the thrust face. The print dimensions are from the centerline of the frame , not the back of the box.
1-Mar-06 Finish bore the axle boxes to be 0.002" bigger than the ball bearings which slide inside it. First step: make it run true to the current bore. We could…
1-Mar-06 Here's how we rough centered the axle box before using the indicator for fine adjusting. We put the aluminum plug, which we used during previous steps,…
22-Mar-06 Time to press the crank pins into the wheels. We went to my friend Joel's shop because he has a 10 ton hydraulic press. Since our crank pin holes were…
22-Mar-06 Pressing the crank pins into the wheels. For the main and intermediate wheels, we press them in from the back. The electric hydraulic pump made quick…
22-Mar-06 The main driver with the crank pin pressed in. Bill wipes away the excess oil (we did not want the steel pin to gall on the cast iron, possibly…
29-Mar-06 Using a rotary chuck given to me by Jim H. back in my parents neighborhood, we gently chuck up the wheel by the crank pin to drill, tap and setscrew…
29-Mar-06 Using a wiggler to find the exact point between the pin and wheel. We will drill, tap and Loctite a shoulder screw that is half in the pin and half in…
22-Feb-06 We would machine the top of one axle box, then loosen the C clamp and rotate the box around the aluminum plug, use the parallels to square things up…
11-Jan-06 We make another fixture for machining the outside of the axle boxes. Shown here is the rough bored box and on the fixture.
11-Jan-06 We turn a chunk of aluminum down to be a sliding fit to the inside of the rough turned axle boxes. The gray iron angle plate is drilled and tapped,…
18-Jan-06 Here's the setup for machining the axle box 'ears' or frame guides: Angle plate bolted to the table, axle box held to the plate with a C clamp,…
14-Dec-05 With so many parts completed I just had to line things up so see the progress. Next we need to complete the axle boxes and assemble the wheels.
14-Dec-05 Time to start working on the axle boxes. First step: chuck it up in the four jaw and machine the reference surface, which is also the thrust surface…
14-Dec-05 We do what we can with the limited tools on hand, in that case we try to center the casting to rough bore the bearing recess. This is a bit…
14-Dec-05. Grab the boring bar, fiddle with the center height, rake angle and point to reduce the chatter for a good finish. This is not the final diameter, but…
23-Nov-05 Making an accurate dead center. We will leave this in the chuck, undisturbed to turn the axles between centers.
25-Nov-05 Turning the axle shafts. This involved turning to the correct diameter and length for one operation, then turning the axle around between centers…
3-Aug-05 With the axle and crankpin holes completed, we now have to face the front of the wheels. Which calls for another fixture to hold the wheels. A large…
10-Aug-05 How the mandrel was mounted on the faceplate, including the offset. If we had left the stub shaft on center we would machine the counter-weights off…
10-Aug-05 The front of the wheel hub after machining. Not all the previous machining marks were removed.
25-Aug-05 Machining the crankpins. We had to do some figuring since after machining the new crankpin holes that part of the pin held in the wheel did not match…
6-Jul-05 With the spring rigging done, it is time to work on the wheels. The quality of the wheels from the supplier was good, but, we were not satisfied with…
6-Jul-05 The first step is to bore the axle shaft hole. Mounting the wheel on the lathe faceplate, we approach the capacity of my little lathe. We used a…
6-Jul-05 Running a slow speed in back gear, we run a truing cut through the hub. Since the keyway is already in the hub, this is an interrupted cut, but the…
6-Jul-05 The massive counterweight of the main drivers caused the lathe to jump a little as it swung around, but nothing so serious that it actually moved.
13-July-05 Once all the wheels were bored out, we made a close-fitting mandrel (or stub shaft) in the 4-jaw chuck to mount the wheel on. The friction fit drove…
13-Jul-05 Truing the back to the newly bored hub hole. You can see the end of the arbor in front of the live center.
13-Jul-05 Machining a brass spacer to put between the two wheels. We discovered the crankpin holes on each wheel did not line up correctly when placed on a…