Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 18 - Tender
Section 18 - Tender
Completed! Tender. 2015 Added the "doghouse" - the brakemans shack to the tender deck, a unique Frisco detail, and backup light. 2014 - Finished over the winter and in service! Some detail work remains. The July 2013 Assembly continues, riveting and welding are in progress. I have already learned one lesson: Cut the tender frame to length AFTER the tank is made. Maybe you will do better than I did, but my tank is a about 1" shorter than planned-making accurate bends in the sheet sides is hard! After using a borrowed tender for the first fire-up of the locomotive, all attention is turned to fabricating one this winter. November 2012 - raw stock for Tender Frame cut. Steel side sheets for tender tank laser cut. Fiberglass Tender received 2003. June 2009 - I am thinking of making a tender instead of using the fiberglass one since the 3 axle trucks I have will not fit under the frame.

At first page Next page 1-64 (of 160 found)
 15-June-2015 New stainless steel mesh screens added to water inlet fittings  15-June-2015 New bracket riveted to the back of the tender deck and Mercer lamp bolted on.  15-June-2015 A unique detail to Frisco - Brakeman's shack on the back of the tender (the  15-June-2015 While we have the tender deck off to install the brakemans shack and back up light, Bill rolls some  8-June-2015 Woodworking in the metal shop. Milling some 5-ply model aircraft plywood down to size to make a faux window frame for the brakeman's shack.  8-June-2015 Brakeman's shack welded together  8-June-2015 Interior view of Brakeman's shack showing little welds holding the floor and sides together.  1-June-2015 Machining a piece of PETG (Lucite) plastic to form the windows of the brakeman's shack.  1-June-2015 We match drill holes from the brakeman's shack floor through the tender deck. Using stainless steel #10 screws, installed from the bottom of the deck and bolted on the top, we create studs to mount the shack to the deck. By removing four nuts inside the shack, we can remove the shack from the deck without having to remove the whole tender teck.  18-May-2015 Fabricated brakeman's shack roof with handrails installed. The aluminum roof has been rolled to match the curve of the sides, awning overhangs bent and handrails installed. Opting for a simple solution to mount the roof to the shack, I glue some magnets to the underside to hold it in place.  16-May-2015 We fabricate a door handle (non-functional) and handrails from 1/8 brass rod.  16-May-2015 Fabricated hand rails for the brakeman's shack. There are two handrails on the roof and one by the door.  8-Sep-2014 well, these footpegs did not last long before getting damaged - 4 months. Forgetting to remove them before loading the engine, I crashed them into the support rack, bending and cracking the pegs at the thread. Bill machined the broken portion back and re-threaded them.  21-Apr-2014 Hose loops to allow for movement without interference, touching the ground, and staying away from our boots on the tender footpeg.  21-Apr-2014 Top view looking down between the engine and tender routing the pipes and hoses to allow movement without kinking or rubbing.  19-Apr-2014 The drawbar is installed and the engine and tender are mated for the first time to route the pipes and hoses.  19-Apr-2014 The drawbar is installed and the engine and tender are mated for the first time to route the pipes and hoses.  19-Apr-2014 With the tank installed on the frame, we install the plumbing.  14-Apr-2014 The tender with paint all around and tank liner finished.  13-Apr-2014 No, not ghost trucks, just aluminum primer for the aluminum truck frames.  14-Apr-2014 First test fit of the oil tank cap. Bill is hanging onto the stub used to chuck it in the lathe, he has threaded and knurled the cap portion of the stock.  13-Apr-2014 Oil tank with glistening wet paint.  13-Apr-2014 Tender hatch lids with fresh paint.  13-Apr-2014 Almost done coating the interior of the tank! It took two quarts of tank liner to do the job.  13-Apr-2014 Water-proofing the underside of the tender top. I had painted the top side five days and thought the paint was cured enough for me to paint the bottom, so I put the top on several spray-can lids to keep table from damaging the finish. Turns out the paint was still green and I ended up with ring prints where the caps marked the paint.  13-Apr-2014 Coating the sides of the tender to make them waterproof. I found it easiest to work with gravity and put the tender on its side to apply the Red-Kote.  13-Apr-2014 Using up several paintbrushes this night, the top sides of the oil tank are primered.  13-Apr-2014 Paint! The tender frame and tender parts get two coats of black paint, brushed on.  12-Apr-2014 Tender deck with a coat of primer.  12-Apr-2014 The oil tank, upside down, with a coat of primer on it.  12-Apr-2014 Time to waterproof the tender. I am using gas tank liner brand  7-Apr-2014 Fit check: oil tank on tenders, valve control handles do not interfere.  7-Apr-2014 The painted tender frame upside down on the bottom of the tender to locate the brackets which will hold the hard piping and valves in place. I weld the blocks to the frame.  5-Apr-2014 Look what arrived! The fabricated fuel tank. All stainless steel construction, 9 gallon capacity.  24-Mar-2014 Once again, the mill table is stripped of the vise and the Tender deck is bolted down for modification - in this case, enlargement of the water control valve openings for the new control rod pipes.  17-Mar-2014 New 1  17-Mar-2014 Pipe elbows installed in the tender bottom, Tender deck test fitted.  15-Mar-2014 Having discovered the bonnet on the ball valves will have to stick up  15-Mar-2014 Laying out the plumbing connections and doing a design-on-the-fly assembly.  10-Mar-2014 The enlarged hole for the water valve plumbing.  We had to move the hole over, closer to the outside frame.  10-Mar-2014  Milling larger holes in the tender frame to accomodate the water valve fittings. We did not have a way to hold the frame on end - the Mill certainly is not tall enough, so we adapted the lathe to be a horizontal mill.  10-Mar-2014 Adapting the lathe to be a horizontal mill. We clamped the tender frame to the carriage, shimmed up with blocks and spacers to the correct height, and supported the other end of the frame using a level to make it true.  8-Mar-2014 Proud result of an evenings labor: the tender hatch is riveted to the deck.  8-Feb-2014 Some time with the hand drill and several drill bits gets the tender deck ready for hatch installation.  8-Mar-2014 Bill makes a pair of footpegs out of some soft 12L18 leaded mild steel.  The knurling tool calls for flood coolent, which I do not have, and one of the knurls starts squeaking then siezes up, ruining one part of the knurl. Fortunately we are able to clean up the knurl and pin and use it dribbling cutting fluid on it.  4-Mar-2014 I am nearly done with all the riveting, and with the tender top.  3-Mar-2014 I am so excited to see the hatch at this point of assembly.  3-Mar-2014 The hinge straps have been riveted to the lid covers and everything still works!  3-Mar-2014 The table is all the way down to give us the height needed to drill and tap a hole in the end of the beam.  3-Mar-2014 Capacity check - how to drill and tap holes in the end of a 16  1-Mar-2014 Now that the frame is finished and front and rear bumpers installed, the front tank hold down brackets can be installed in the correct position.  1-Mar-2014 The bending jig is employed to hold the parts for drilling the rivet holes.  1-Mar-2014 The truck mount plate is welded to the frame, along with the kingpin bolt.  24-Feb-2014 I finish putting the rivets in tender deck.  I am able to do two lines each day before I tire out.  24-Feb-2014 Bill makes up a quick disconnect drawbar pin keeper.  22-Feb-2014 Height check of the drawbar pocket with the new front bumper beam. We could not figure out how to modify the original and retain the drawbar pin, so we made a new one.  22-Feb-2014 Height check of the modifications: pass.  22-Feb-2014 Tender rear bumper modifications: spacer blocks for the coupler pocket.  22-Feb-2014 Tender rear bumper modifications: spacer blocks added to the coupler pocket.  17-Feb-2014 More progress, the hinge butt have been riveted to the hatch frame, and the straps drilled for the rivets.  17-Feb-2014 During the riveting process, one of the ears of the hinge came off, so I silver soldered it back together and used the end of a drill to help alignment.  Yes, I soldered the drill to the part. Some careful machining with a carbide mill cut the drill out.  17-Feb-2014 modifying the coupler pocket also means modifying the bumper beam.  17-Feb-2014 With the trucks under the tender, we discover the coupler pocket is too high and does not meet IBLS standards. We will modify the coupler pocket to lower it.  17-Feb-2014 Riveting the hinge butts to the frame broke the poor braze weld joints, so I weld them with the MIG wire feed welder.
Page 1 of 3 Next page