Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 15 - Cab
Section 15 - Cab
Completed! The Cab. September 2014 - Cab roof in Frisco Red Oxide, cab lighting. August 2012 - Fitting and modifying the stock USRA cab to be more like a FRISCO. August 2011 - Right now we are focusing on the minumum needed to get the locomotive running, cab finishing and details will come later. May 2011 - Cab Floor Started. June 2008-Check out the beautiful laser cut parts my friend Tim M. hooked me up with!

 1-Sept-2014 A coat of primer and two coats of green paint for the roof interior; five days later two coats of Red Oxide primer followed by two more semi-gloss coats of clear top coat finished the roof.  1-Sept-2014 Working in cramped, and on this day, hot, quarters inside the travel trailer, I have welded the square stock to the cab roof, nearly standing on my head to do so. We have match-drilled the cab front and back holes and used stainless stell button-head screws to hold things down.  23-Aug-2014 The roof braces have been cut to size (I went to my friend Joel's shop and used his shear), bent using my rehabilitated finger brake and riveted on.  23-Aug-2014 The dangers of workig nights in the shop and without blueprints - a miscalculation on rivet placement by 1/8  18-Aug-2014 Match drilling the square stock with the rolled cab roof for the rivets. We have bolted a 2x4 to the bench to anchor the cab roof and cab side.  We found that by putting a piece of wood behind the sheet metal it would prevent the drill chuck from crashing into the metal and leaving marks when the drill bit broke through the other side.  16-Aug-2014 We bend the roof with the old hand-cranked roller, doing our best to keep things even and consistently bent. Hard to see, but we have also used the scrapped cab front as a drill jig to drill, then tap, the square stock brackets, one of which is bolted to the cab. We will use this scrapped cab to match drill the front and back cab pieces already installed on the locomotive.  11-Aug-2014 Using a drill gauge to put the rivet holes in the sheet metal. We used the mill to make the gauge and a hand drill to drill the holes.  11-Aug-2014 We faced a serious dilema mounting the cab roof to the cab. 1) We did not have any cab roof prints to help us design brackets to mount the roof, and 2) the cab was installed on the locomotive which is upstairs in the travel trailer and very hard to get to.  9-Aug-2014 Since I do not have a foot shear to quickly cut sheet metal, I have to resort to machining it. Using hand tin snips bend the metal which was not acceptable. Here the setup is 18   28-July-2014 Half the machining completed. The roof with the access opening (larger) to the cab interior, and waterglass valve access opening (smaller, top).  The sheetmetal is sitting on top of a piece of plastic which came from a ceiling light difuser panel. It was used to template the finished roof, curving it around the cab (which was installed on the engine which was in the travel trailer, not in the shop).  The plastic easily bent around the curved roof profile, allowing us to size up the sheet metal when flat, but it had one side which was brittle and did not cut well.  The idea of using a flexible piece of material to size up the roof (which we could not do with metal because we could not machine it after bending) was the right idea, but using this ceiling difuser was not the right material since it did not cut but wanted to break instead.  28-July-2014 The scrap piece of wood after the sheetmetal is lifted off.  28-July-2014 The roof openings, rear overhang and access hole is layed out on the flat metal for machining. We drill two holes for clamping in the roof access opening which will later be milled away. The metal is clamped down over a piece of plywood on the table so we can mill through the metal but not the table.  28-July-2014 Large piece of square stock clamped across the sheetmetal to hold it down and against the stop for machining.  28-July-2014 Setting up a stop on the table which is true to the Y-axis so we can mill the sheet stock for the roof square. The order of operations is 1) butt sheet against stop, take a light cut on the sheetmetal which is slightly overhanging the table, 2) unclamp and rotate anti-clockwise so the freshly cut edge is against the stop; repeat for sides 3) and 4).  14-Sept-2012 The cab with a coat of paint.  12-Sept-2012 The cab, trial assembly. The angle iron in the corners have been cut, drilled and riveted with 3/32  2-Sept-2012 Photo of the cab floor with installed valves.  Also, a picture of the locomotive outside for the first time ever!  2-Sept-2012 We spent most of the morning working on the brake valve plumbing. Here it is, installed on the cab floor. Right now, only the steam supply and Engine brake line is connected.  I have not made the steam ejector for the train vacuum brakes.  1-Sept-2012 Closeup of the flat scriber. It's made from a broken cutoff tool I shattered. Bill re-ground it to a vee-point, with clearance rake on either side.  1-Sept-2012 The sides of the cab floor had different amounts of overhang on the left and right. Using the flat scriber, we mark a line on the excess side to trim the cab floor to.  1-Sept-2012 After prick-punching the cab floor bolt locations from the cab sides brackets, we drill.  1-Sept-2012 Cab trial assembly, checking alignment to the cab floor so we can prick-punch the floor bolt locations.  1-Sept-2012 Yet another trial fitting of the cab, this time with all sides and inside brackets held in place with Clecos loaned to me from fellow SLLS member Ray G.  1-Sept-2012 After two hours of gentle grinding then trial fitting, marking and grinding with the angle grinder, I have achieve an acceptable fit of the cab front to the boiler jacketing. Next we grab the rivet gun and buck some rivets in.  The cab front should stay bolted to the locomotive when finished.  to facilitate servicing I will make the cab sides an back removable.  So, the cab front will be held to the sides with eight bolts (four per side). To maintain appearances, the rest of the decorative rivets are installed into holes with countersunk backs so they end up flush on the inside (allows the inside corner angle bracket to be bolted on).  27-Aug-2012 I spend some time with the bandsaw set up with vertical table, sawing the outside roof radius and rough cutting the inside boiler radius.  This time around I am better with the sawcut, now I need to trim the cab front to fit the boiler jacketing better.  27-Aug-2012 Another machinist's tip was revealed tonight. In order to mimic the Frisco window style, we needed to mill the left and right sides to a 5 degree angle. Set the 5 degrees on the protractor. place the fixed edge against the workpiece.  Install a dial test indicator on the spindle and rest the pointer on the ruler. Traverse the table in the Y direction (front to back). If the ruler is aligned with the table, the dial test indicator will stay at zero. If not aligned, bump the workpiece around in the needed direction until you get a zero reading. Lock the workpiece down and mill your angle!  20-Aug-2012 The stock is bolted down across middle and on the ends.  It's hard to see but the stock is resting on some parallels to keep it off the table for the milling operations.  The top windows have been milled, the rivet holes all around drilled and work on the windows it in progress.  It was a tough night for tools in the shop, we broke four endmills (two HSS and two carbide) milling the windows.  20-Aug-2012  Bill drills a couple pilot holes to bolt the piece down to the table for the milling operations.  20-Aug-2012 After all that work modifying and cutting the cab front out, I wasn't happy with the results.  The window modification gave it look like a droopy hound 'eyes' and the curved fit to the jacketing was lumpy. I stopped off at the local metal supplier and picked up another piece of 1/8  4-Aug-2012 The machined front cab on the boiler with FRISCO details!  4-Aug-2012 I change the 6 pitch blade in the bandsaw to the 10-14 variable pitch fine-tooth blade and cut the cab front to match the jacket profile from the tracing fixture I made.  4-Aug-2012 Another trial fitting of the cab walls. after machining the brackets and cab sides, they fit together nicely!  4-Aug-2012 Another trial fitting of the cab walls. after machining the brackets and cab sides, they fit together nicely!  4-Aug-2012 Even after milling the steel hot roll angle iron down 1/32  30-Jul-2012 At the end of the workshop day: more angle brackets completed, including milling the right lower bracket to fit around the reversing stand lever.  30-Jul-2012 Drilling and tapping the bottom brackets for 5-40 threads.  23-July-2012 Checking the fit of the machined brackets.Looks like the brackets, which are 1/8  18-June-2012 Drilling rivet holes in 1/2  29-June-2011, 5-July-2011 work on the cab floor continues.  Lacking the small angle iron called for in the prints, we've milled some 1/4 x 3/8  22-June-2011 Cab floor with boiler cutout completed. A Nice fit.  This is also the first of many cab floor on/off fittings as we add all the appliances to the cab.  With the Mill Ram fully retracted, Bill continues to mill the cutouts on the cab floor.  Trial fitting of cab components on the floor. We decide the little extra width of the floor is okay.  The metal is 1/4  22-June-2011 Trimming the cab floor to size. The metal supplier did a good job  shearing the 1/8  17-May-2011 With the cab floor support brackets bolet in place, it's time to work on the cab floor.  But before jumping directly to cutting metal, I decide to use a cardboard template to check things.  My favorite carboard: Cereal boxes! Go for the jumbo family size and it will unfold with lots of material to work with.  Now in this section of the drawings, things get a little sketchy. The only bolt holes shown on the cab floor are for the brackets ABOVE the floor to hold the sides, front and back down to the floor. Nothing about anything below the floor. And on the cab front, two of the holes on the left and right are supposed to be 2-3/8  Here's how things look before drilling and tapping.  Clamping the pieces in position, we use a dowel punch to dimple the location of the hole.  The clamp blocks the other hole, so leaving the part clamped in place, drill and tap the hole, then thread a #5 bolt in place.  After that we move the clamp over, punch, drill, tap and secure!  The holes have been drilled and next we use a stout 4-flute endmill to turn the extra material at the corner into chips.  We have use the swivel base of the vise to rotate the part to the specified angle.  17-May-2011 Bill use a clamp to hold the two pieces together from the previous operation while turning side to side for machining. Here the plates are set up on parallels and clamped in the vise jaws so we can drill the holes.  17-May-2011 Step one of machining the cab floor brackets - mill them square.  Both pieces have been saw cut from the plate and are clamped in the vise.  Using a shell cutter with the pieces sticking so far up out of the vise makes for a noisy, chattery operation, but it worked.  It's time like these I wish I had a shear (and since I'm wishing, that could cut 1/8  3-July-08 The laser cut cab sides, thanks for my friend Tim M.