Up one level Neidrauer Live Steam Locomotives Photo Albums » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 16 - Cab Accessories
Section 16 - Cab Accessories
Completed! Cab Accessories. Should be called the plumbing section! 2014 - We make a steam vacuum ejector for the train brakes, lubricator for the brake stand. May 2012 - Minimum required plumbing completed for first fire-up. The manifold, main steam valves, accessories and controls all need to be plumbed in this section. The reverse stand is nearly finished (Aug 2011), Johnson bar. Plumbing completed for: Manifold; Blower; Main Steam Gage; Water Glass, Aux Air Manifold. Injectors are next.

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 26-Mar-2012 Another hole in the cab floor -- milling a pocket for the fireman's side combination washout plug and boiler fill.  22-Mar-2012 Oil fuel line inlet (right) and union with line going forward to the burner.  22-Mar-2012 Plumbing the fuel line to the burner. This is basically to print.  It did require we make six elbows.  12-Mar-2012 Fuel valve with plumbing assembly started.  11-March-2012 I puzzle out the bends required for the water lines, using thin wall 5/16  11-Mar-2012 Fun with the tubing bender!  11-Mar-2012 Steam line for the injector all soldered up.  5-Mar-2012 The finished valve stantions.  5-Mar-2012 I work on silver soldering the lines from the injector starting valves to the injectors.  5-Mar-2012 Bill turns two valve stantions our of 303 stainless while I work on some plumbing. They are for the Fuel and Atomizer valves.  27-Feb-2012 The Aux Air Manifold installed with the Atomizer Main Air Valve also installed.  One good thing about this longer manifold is we have four screws mounting it, instead of just two like the print, giving us extra strength against the connect/disconnect forces of the air fitting.  27-Feb-2012 We start to work on plumbing the Injectors. Pictured here are two 1/8 copper elbows, heated and opened up to something like 110 degrees.  The starting valves come off the the steam manifold at a pretty good angle, if we had left them at 90 degrees they would not go straight down to the cab floor, but angle in toward the fire door, which would look terrible.  Due to some goofy copper manufacturers standard, the elbows take 3/8 tube, but are called 1/8 fittings. We will use 5/16  20-Feb-2012 While Bill was working on the Aux Air Manifold, I made up the oil line support bracket.  20-Feb-2012  A nights work produces the Aux Air manifold. I did not have a 1/4  20-Feb-2012 Skipping a work night due to bad weather (snow/ice), We start right in on the Auxiliary Air Manifold.  We decide not to follow the print exactly, which calls for a shorter manifold with piping to the air quick connect. The print location of the piping puts the QC in the same place as the injector, boiler fill valve and axle bypass valve.  We choose to extend the manifold the length of the cab support bracket, eliminating the need for separate QC piping.  First step: Drill out the brass manifold and tap the ends for 1/4 taper pipe threads.  1-Nov-2011 The blower valve is installed.  I can't believe this fitting took us one night to install, but it did.  Shown is the custom 1/4 tube compression elbow on the boiler modified with a sleave and silver soldered to 1/4  1-Nov-2011 Taking a little off the top. Although we measured the distance from the boiler fitting to the manifold valve, the exact distance to match the union to the valve was hard to precisely measure.  so we left the pipe long and took it back off several times to trim it down a bit, about two threads each time until it matched.  24-Oct-2011 The left side of the cab next to the end of the turret is going to be a crowded place in regards to plumbing. We will try to sneak the water glass fittings behind the injector valve. If we hadn't used a street elbow but a regular elbow and nipple to mount the manifold to the boiler, we would have had more space up against the boiler. Oh well!  24-Oct-2011 With adapter unions and adapter bushings installed, we begine to ponder how to position, place and pipe the waterglass.  24-Oct-2011 Using the union as a holder, we make some in-place close nipples.  Here we are facing the brass pipe to length before threading.  24-Oct-2011 A special Adapter Union! 1/4 MPT on one end, 5/16 MTP on the other.  24-Oct-2011 Back to assembly! The now shorter manifold is (re)-installed on the boiler. On the right the main steam gage fittings have been installed, on the left the cylinder cock valve has been threaded on.  17-Oct-2011 A custom male-male adapter bushing - 1/4 to 5/16 MTP for the water glass.  17-Oct-2011 Centering up a pierce of hex stock in an adjustable 6-jaw vise with an indicator.  The indicator is mounted on a quick-change tool holder.  To use, put indicator on toolpost, bring in to touch the part with the cross-compound, take a reading, use carriage handwheel and move off the part, rotate 180 degrees, bring carriage back to part and take reading. Move adjustable chuck in or out until both readings match.  17-Oct-2011 Piping layout for main steam gage.  The valve is from Superscale, street el from PM Research and gage from American Model Supply.  17-Oct-2011 Custom fitting to adapt main steam gage banjo fitting to 1/8 MTP shutoff valve.  17-Oct-2011 Proposed piping layout for the water glass and valves.  27-Aug-2011 I finished up the clevis links over the weekend. The boiler bracket is 2-3/4  Milling a flat in the throttle handle. We decided not to use the 1/8  24-Aug-2011 Using sucha small drill (#78) called for the fastest speed on my Bridgeport, which in this case is 5,440 rpm, quite a lot faster than a standard J-head.  24-Aug-2011 Using a #78 drill bit to drill the spring hole in the handle with a sensitive drill attachement.  17-Aug-2011 The revering stand with notch graduations cut.  The first notches away from center are 1/2  No, he's not holding the plate in place while we machine the slots, the c-clamp is doing that. But he is feeling how the cutter is doing and feeling for excessive play in the setup. There is some deflection particularly in the middle slot where there is no support for the two bars.  Bill didn't like clamping the edge of the angle plate in the vise--it puts a lot of twist on the movable jaw and is a small contact point--so a scrap metal bar (the one with rust on it) was put in the center to put pressure on the fixed jaw.  We put another piece underneath it to keep it from dropping below the jaw surface while we tightened it up.  17-Aug-2011 With the angle plate held in the vise, we use the 8-32 hole in it for the pivot point.  The pivot point drilled on the left, two holes are drilled and tapped 5.077  17-Aug-2011 Making a poor man's dividing plate to cut the quadrent slots.  27-July-2011 Closer up view of the 'half' clevis installed on the reversing lever.  We turned a #8-32 steel model bolt down so the half clevis was bearing on the smooth unmachined portion of the bolt and not on threads.  We had to turn down a longer 2  27-July-2011 The reverse stand with reach rod installed.  We used a 1/4  27-July-2011 The top 'half' clevis is for the reversing lever, the bottom for the tumbling shaft lever. The top one is stamped with the letters  While Bill was working on the clevis', I turned a 1/4-28 left-hand nut from some 7/16 hex stock.The drill is just to catch the nut from the parting off operation.  27-July-2011 Milling a 'half' clevis for the reversing lever.  20-July-2011 The reverser with finished notching bars installed.  20-July-2011 on the very last pass, taking only a 0.002 cut, we climb mill for a nice finish.  An hour later, we are almost done making a square bar curved!  Conventional milling only, we take small cuts - 0.010 to 0.015 each pass.  20-July-2011 The bolt holes have been drilled in the table and the bars to be radiused are bolted down for machining.  We put a couple sacrificial washers underneath to lift the bars off the table slightly (the end of our cutter was dull so lifting it moved the bars into the sharper section).  20-July-2011 With the rotary table back on the mill and the sacrificial worksufrace bolted to the top, we are ready to radius the reverser notch bars. The plug is centered up in the table and we move over 5.077 to drill the holed for the bolts.  20-July-2011 After much figuring and consulting the geometery/trig/triangle sections of the Machinists Handbook, we calculate the distance from the centerpoint to the centerline of the bolt holes to be 5.0776.  Test fitting the reverser after we cut an opening in the floor.   13-July-2011 Positioning the reverser on the cab floor to cut out the lever opening.  4-Aug-2010 After some 'get dimensions by scaling from the print directly', the quadrent bars are drilled.  4-Aug-2010 Trying to figure out the proper assembly of the reverse lever. There are three drawings in coflict with each other - The cab assembly view, reverse stand assembly view and the reverse lever drawing.  The machined lower reverse stand.  23-July-2010 Bill starts work on the Reverse Stand