Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 18 - Tender
Section 18 - Tender
Completed! Tender. 2015 Added the "doghouse" - the brakemans shack to the tender deck, a unique Frisco detail, and backup light. 2014 - Finished over the winter and in service! Some detail work remains. The July 2013 Assembly continues, riveting and welding are in progress. I have already learned one lesson: Cut the tender frame to length AFTER the tank is made. Maybe you will do better than I did, but my tank is a about 1" shorter than planned-making accurate bends in the sheet sides is hard! After using a borrowed tender for the first fire-up of the locomotive, all attention is turned to fabricating one this winter. November 2012 - raw stock for Tender Frame cut. Steel side sheets for tender tank laser cut. Fiberglass Tender received 2003. June 2009 - I am thinking of making a tender instead of using the fiberglass one since the 3 axle trucks I have will not fit under the frame.

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 17-Feb-2014 My second attempt to braze this joint also failed, so a bit of weld from the MIG welder is applied. I will have to machine the extra away.  15-Feb-2014 Welding the kingpin boss to the frame plate.  15-Feb-2014 The tender trucks have progressed to the point that we see the bolster mount design called for by the blueprints will not work for us. I work on undoing the welding with a carbide mill.  10-Feb-2014 Trial fitting the hinges on the hatch frame and covers.  10-Feb-2014 Drilling the rivet hole in the butt part of the hinge, using a piece of wood with a close fitting slot to hold the parts.  4-Feb-2014 The result: six hinges almost interchangable. Labeled for best fit with each other.  4-Feb-2014 The setup to produce six interchangable hinges: vise stop for location, and a parallel with a down pin (I had to use a drill bit) to set the height.  4-Feb-2014 A small carbide mill and gentle cuts puts the slot into the hinges.  3-Feb-2014 Hinges after silver soldering. Close examination shows more practice is required to make a professional looking joint.  3-Feb-2014 The silver soldered portion of the strap hinges - a length of flat stock and turned stock each.  3-Feb-2014 Taking a tip from master builder Kozo Hiraoka, I fabricate the butt side of the hinges with a silver solder operation.  1-Feb-2014 Contemplating how I am going to make the strap hinges, using the Frisco 1522 tender hatch picture as a guide.  27-Jan-2014 Hatch handles are bend in the die. One side is extra long to give me something to hand onto for the later drilling operations.  27-Jan-2014 Another bending die! This one to make the hatch handles.  27-Jan-2014 Another bending die! This one to make the hatch handles.  25-Jan-2014 Finished center hatch lid in the die. Note the relief cut in the bottom die to allow the first bend clearance.  25-Jan-2014 Finished center hatch lid  24-Jan-2014 Second bending try in the hydraulic press and pump the jack handle until it won't go anymore and the results are better.  24-Jan-2014 Bend test with a scrap piece does nto show the  24-Jan-2014 Bend test with a scrap piece.  24-Jan-2014 Upper and lower halves of the die completed and dowel pins pushed in with the press. I put the two halves together and they fit - yea!  23-Jan-2014 Top half of bending die being matchined.  20-Jan-2014 Bottom half of bending die, layed out with best accuracy I can manage.  20-Jan-2014 I fabricate a bending die for the center hatch cover which lays over the left and right covers.  20-Jan-2014 I had to add an anti-vibration support to reduce the amount of spring the part had in it from this suspect setup.  20-Jan-2014 The thin 0.040 saw made a Bang! Crunch! noise and faster than I could react half the saw broke apart. I was using cutting oil, small infeeds and a slow cutting speed, but it was not enough.  I did not have any other saws this thin. Amazingly I was able to finish the cuts with this broken saw, using very very light cuts.  20-Jan-2014  Having failed to make enough allowances for saw cuts in the hatch cover, I use the thinest blade I am comfortable with to cut the left, right and center pieces.  20-Jan-2014 Using the angle plate and cutoff saw, the right-hand hatch cover is cut.  18-Jan-2014 Simple outboard support for the tender frame deck, and adjustable height bench chair.  18-Jan-2018 With the tender frame welded up, the frame deck can be trimmed to the finished size.  13-Jan-2014 Giving up on the rotary table to round the ends of the hatch, I go low tech and clamp the part to a sawhorse and use the sanding wheel on the angle grinder to round the ends.  13-Jan-2014 I decide to use the rottary table to round the ends of the hatch cover. I spend the better part of one evening trying to figure out the setup for centering and clamping the part without interferring with the cutter, without success.  13-Jan-2014 Cutting the hatch cover out of sheet metal after some sketching and marker design sessions.  11-Jan-2014 Hatch frame and deck hole.  11-Jan-2014 Test layout of the hatch frame over the hole.  11-Jan-2014 With an additional bar clamped across the back to reduce the amount of sheet metal lift/chatter, I use an end cutting mill to cut the hatch opening.  11-Jan-2014 Easiest way to make a 2  11-Jan-2014 Tender deck bolted down to the mill table to cut the hatch opening. The ram is nearly extended the full length out and the table is at the stops to make the back cut.  11-Jan-2014 Time to put the hatch hole into the deck. Let's see, maybe I'll put the deck on the table this way....except I can't clamp it down and the table does not have enough front-to-back travel. Need to try a different way.  6-Jan-2014 I encountered problems trying the TIG weld the air tank mounts, and did not think I could make a small bead with the wire MIG welder, so I decided to braze the parts together. I am gettng better at silver soldering, so how hard could it be?  4-Jan-2013 The hatch frame with drilled rivet holes. You can also see the marker layout lines and where I have moved the hatch to avoid putting the hatch over a baffle.  4-Jan-2014 Next puzzle to solve: now that I have cut the part into two pieces, how am I going to put the rivet holes into the bottom? Clamped to a board and held down by a thick washer, I center the parts in the mill to run a bolt circle pattern to drill the holes.   4-Jan-2014 With the angle iron cut to size, I check the sizing and layout of the hatch frame.  30-Dec-2013 Pleased with my work, I put the parts on the deck to see how they look.  30-Dec-2013 Trying to skip the complications of setting up the angle plate and slitting saw to cut the part in half, I decide to clamp it to the bench and use a hand hacksaw to make the cuts.  30-Dec-2013 The turned hatch frame end. It appears to match the angle iron stock nicely.  30-Dec-3013 I begin work on the tender water hatch. I will use 1/4  16-Dec-2013 Fitting check of the tender deck and water legs.  16-Dec-2013 Using a piece of the tender which I had cut off as a drill template for the decorative rivets.  16-Dec-2013 Trimming the water leg covers to width in the mill-drill with a reverse-spiral mill. This works so much better than a convention bit which pulls the metal up, this drives it down against the plywood standoff.  11-Nov-2013 Tender tank right-side up, fitting tank lid. Also seeing how the numbers will look before ordering a paint mask from Connie Miracle Graphics.  28-Oct-2013 Tender tank, upside down with two coats of primer and black paint.  28-Oct-2013 Tender frame tack welded together, but not to the tender deck. I want to make sure the tender trucks sit under the frame properly before attaching the deck.  14-Oct-2013 Drilling holes in tender deck for water lines and drains. Spent some time adjusting where actual holes ended up on finished tender compared to expect location before drilling. Drilled 2-1/4  30-Sept-2013 With the tender upside down, we drill and rivet the rear tender mounts to the tank. Next I begin laying out the tender frame for sizing and welding.  12-Aug-2013 Finished tender tank brackets ready for installation. Frisco only used four brackets on their tanks, no the six called for in the USRA plans.  5-Aug-2013 Tank bolt down brackets are rough machined, using the Frisco rivet hole pattern.  4-Aug-2013 Water baffles installed. This completes the major work on the tender tank body. Next is tender frame and tank top.  4-Aug-2013 I weld cross braces and the baffles in.  15-July-2013 I finish putting in the last of the rivets!  15-July-2013 I use the deep reach clamp to hold the sides of the fuel bunker against the braces for welding.  8-July-2013 The left side of the tender slowly gets populated with rivets.  8-July-2013 A few more rivets on the sail area, and to test fitting and adjustments for the tender top, including enlarging the holes for the water valve controls.
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