Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album » Building a Live Steam Locomotive - the Mikado Project » Section 14 - Boiler Accessories
Section 14 - Boiler Accessories
Close to being Finished! Boiler Accessories. Need to make a turret cover, mount the dynamo, add reach rods for the blowdowns. 2015 We take the jacketing off again to mount the running boards, and lag part of of the boiler. 2014 - Frisco top-mounted air tanks. July 2012 - boiler Jacketing. April 2011 - Fire door completed, installed. Maybe the fire pan is really finished this time! Fire pan modified, completed, for a square burner and damper assembly Feb 2011. Fire pan modified, completed, for a larger atomizer opening in fall 2010. The fire pan was started Jan 2010, completed May 2010. Plumbing the burner in Jan-2012.

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 10-Oct-2011 My larger boring head did not have enough travel to allow outside machining, so we chucked up another smaller head to achieve the outside distance we needed.  Not a very rigid setup, but acceptable for cutting brass with easy tolerances.  10-Oct-2011 We've centered and indicated the spindle directly over the manifold nipple. Using an endmill machined the nipple shorter and now are using a boring bar to cut on the outside to reduce the diameter so we can put new pipe threads on it.  10-Oct-2011 Another  3-Oct-2011 Blowdown valve aligned and installed!  Decided not to use the washout plug hole for the blowdown so we would not have to unscrew the blowdown every year during boiler washout and inspection.  3-Oct-2011 Tapping the blowdown holes  3-Oct-2011 Not wanting to drill a hole into the soft copper flues inside the boiler, we use a piece of pipe as a 'drill stop' when drilling the pilot holes for the water inlets.  Machining a fixture to align the hand tap to the boiler so the threaded holes will be straight.  19-Sept-2011 on the fireman's side, we  mark two inlets on center, one for the water pump and the other for the injector.  The holes are two inches apart on center.  19-Sept-2011 Having previously set the scriber on center, we lay out the water inlet holes on the boiler.  We clamp a piece of 1/4  19-Sept-2011 With the angle head set at 90 and the rule on the vertical up and down marks, we set the scriber to 5-13/16  14-Sept-2011 The piece of 303 machinable stainless steel 1/2x1/2 stock came in, Bill made up the throttle clevis end from it.  5-Sept-2011 Also completed this labor day: throttle bracket welded to the boiler, throttle momentarily installed to check clearances.  5-Sept-2011 Backhead Manifold installed on the boiler!  Also pictured: throttle lever temporarily installed.  5-Sept-2011 Using an inside angle plate toline up the holes on the end of the bar for tapping.  The angle plate was checked for level first, then the top of the bar checked to insure it was in agreement.  5-sept-2011 Manifold in the vise, laying out the valve spacing.  We decide on 1-1/4  5-Sept-2011 Cleaned up Backhead manifold after silver soldering on some firebricks.  I held the Mapp gas torch to the barstock, Bill held the propane torch to the round fitting to get the whole thing hot enough for the silver solder.  20-Aug-2011 The after-effects of the burner test.  The use of mortar grout as a protective skin over the softer high-temperature insulating cement was a failure.  The thin grout cracked and peeled up into the flame path.  I resorted to breaking and peeling the sections away, removing them from the pan.  9-July-2011 Test firing the slot-style burner in open air with diesel fuel.  After adjusting the burner to point upwards more, we were able to get a satisfing performance out of it.  This slot style burner is made of two plates of brass bolted together. it has two 1/4  I'm very happy the flame covers a wide width and not a narrow toarch-like jet.  9-July-2011 We test fired the burner today at Tim's house.  20-Apr-11 Check out the New old stock Mercer steam dome I just picked up!  Much closer to the Frisco design than the big USRA one!  26-Mar-2011  We have machined a hole for the damper door rod which is not on the prints and cut a couple slots for piping, which also is not on the print.  26-Mar-2011 Bill peens over the bolts of the boiler support bracket to make sure they do not come loose.  23-Mar-2011 The damper door assembled.  When you weld thin metal like this, it really move around.  It warped at the edges which caused binding. we straightened it out in the vise, but you can see where it scratched the paint off from rubbing. By the end we got it to move freely.  23-Mar-2011 Test fitting the damper door after welding  9-Mar-2011 We begin work on the damper.  We use stainless steel and have gone off-print a bit, using thinner .062 thick pieces.  We also don't like the 10-32 screw idea for adjusting the damper position  It will take some 140 turns of the screw to go full open to rull closed! No way!  9-Mar-2011 The burner is trial fitted tothe firepan. Oil on top, steam on the bottom.  9-Mar-2011  Another shot of the burner installed in the yet again modified burner opening.  5-Mar-2011 Firebox interior showing burner assembly installed in firepan.  We think the primary air should be drawing in around the burner, which keeps the burner cooler and starts to mix the air/oil mixture for a more complete and earlier burn.  5-Mar-2011  I have to take the firepan down once again to enlarge the burner opening.  After this is done, here's how it looks with the burner installed.  Bill finished his clean up cuts on the burner.  5-Mar-2011  I have the idea to weld a frame on to the boiler which is already drilled and taped for the firedoor to mount to.  Here I've tack-welded the pieces to the boiler and installed the firedoor.  5-Mar-2011  Milling a step inthe burner to reduce its size in the firepan openening, we've also beveled the corners and machined the end faces together.  5-Mar-2011 The finished bottom piece, steam side. The slot in only .010 deep.  5-Mar-2011 We use a 1/4  5-Mar-2011 Drilling the assembly holes.  I cut two slices of bar stock leftover from the water pump in the bandsaw, Bill uses the flycutter to clean them up.  2-Mar-2011  After much discussion about dual burners, inside-mixing burners and the Bagely burner (which I was partial to) we decide to build a slot style burner, using one by Harold Timm, Live Steam December 1983, changing dimensions to fit our engine.  The bending is not quite even across the whole bar, we work on moving the to round bars out some more.  22-Feb-2011 Back to the turret manifold. The large fixed jaw face is installed on the vice again and the radius block use to bend the tumbling shaft is put to use again to bend the large brass bar.  22-Feb-2011 Marking the bolt hole location for the fire door on the boiler.  I'm not sure how we are going to accurately drill and tap these 5-40 bolt holes only 3/16  22-Feb-2011 After playing with angles, thelatch pocket if milled into the door frame.  22-Feb-2011 A neat trick: to get a nice radius on the end of part, use a courner-rounding bit to make one-half, then flip the part ofver and do the other half.  19-Feb-2011  Drilling the 5-40 holes for the latch assembly.  19-Feb-2011 the door frame and door castings now fit each other!  19-Feb-2011 Rounding the door frame hinges to provide clearance and to center the door in the opening.  19-Feb-2011 using a slitting saw to put a concave clearance area under the door hinge location on the door frame.  19-Feb-2011 Putting a radius on the hinges so the door will open.  Using a reamer to finish the hole to size  Using a long aircraft drill to drill the lower hole using the upper hole as a guide.  this insures the holes are in line with each other.  Drilling the hinge pin holes. Note use of parallel in horizontal position to hold the assembly.  19-Feb-2011 Machining the door hinges flat to match the foor frams hinge size.  Also in a previous step, Bill has cleaned up the edge of the door casting with an inside corner rounding bit.  19-Feb-2011 Taking a small clean up cut on the door frame hinges.  This gives a nice flat surface for the door to contact by removing the draft from the casting, and also gives us a dimension to aim for when machining the door hinges.  16-Feb-2011 Flycutting the back of the fire door casting  16-Feb-2011 Using a feeler to see if the door frame is well seated against the parallels. In this case, the feeler is a 6  16-Feb-2011 Preparing to flycut the firebox door frame.  11-Feb-2011 We begin work on the turret manifold. Using a button-head end on the dial indicator, we center the 8 long bar in the 4-jaw and drill a hole through the center. Also face the ends and put a nice radius on them.  26-Jan-2011 It worked! we made a small custom flaring tool to fit into the small space and flared the end of the main steam pipe.  Installing the flaring tool for use.  26-Jan-2011 The finished custom flaring tool  26-Jan-2011 Our challenge: put a flare on the end of the dry pip (top pipe).  our existing flaring tools will not fit into this space.  26-Jan-2011 Making a flaring tool  26-Jan-2011 Machining the other half of the flaring tool
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