Up one level Neidrauer Adventures Photo Album and Blog » The Freight Elevator Project
The Freight Elevator Project
Since I can't carry Locomotives in and out of my no-outside-access basement, one key piece of equipment will be a lifting mechanism I am building. I have fabricated my own freight elevator for the stairwell opening. H. Graham has completed the engineering, provided 16 pages of drawings. Project start: November 2010. I have completed the mechanical fabrication Winter 2011. The power is in, the controls are in and operational. The staircase stand is now finished. Modifications to the lifting stand is complete November 2011. The lifting stand has made a trial lift to the top without issue. December 2011: Fabricated the jumper track for the top of the stairs to bridge the stand to the garagee. First solo lift, load out, load in and lower, December 2011. February 2012: Cover for electrical controls completed. March 2012: First full load trial lift completed, issues found. The tension on the chains was so great the posts shifted against the anchors, introducing excessive chain slack, even with redesigned chain guards. The posts will have to be laterally braced. April 2012 -- horizontal post braces installed. May 2012 -- The first full-load lift of the locomotive resulted in one nut seizing on the screw, jamming the system. July 2012 - Four new nuts and a one replacement screw have been fabricated. August 2012 - the lift is reassembled. September 2012 - Success! Lifted the locomotive and Bill and myself out of the basement without issue.

Previous page Next page 65-128 (of 144 found)
 16-Feb-2011 Beveling one end of 1/2  12-Feb-2011 We slotted one end to allow for slight movement of the beam and screws when in use.  12-Feb-2011 A successful test fitting of the beam!  Drilling the lifting nut bolt holes.  Sometimes you just need a little more support on one end (of a 50 lbs. beam!)  2-Feb-2011 A string of lousy weather Saturdays had allowed extra shop time this month!  With the support posts final installed, the lifting nut bolt holes can be drilled into the beams.  I was only 1/16  12-Feb-2011 The motor mouting assembly.  9-Feb-2011 Making a mounting plate for the motor out of 1/2  9-Feb-2011 The chain and sprocket assembly.  I would recommend making a longer shaft and also put a bearing below the sprockets for additional support.  9-Feb-2011 The support posts have been anchored to the floor and to the house floor joists (thanks Al for your help!), and #40 chain purchased from a local supplier. The installed drive chain!  Packing the thrust bearings for installation.  5-Feb-2011 Welding additional support bracket on the upper bearing plate. It was listed as optional on the drawings.   17-Nov-2010 Fitting the upper bearings and screws to the support posts.  The quickest way to get a professional paint job - have a professional do it! Fresh from the sandblaster with a coat of enamal paint end undercoat, the parts look fantastic! I also had the gondola painted while I was dropping things off.  8-Aug-10 Main welding complete. Need to weld lifting brackets on and drill bolt holes after check the 'as-finsihed' assembly dimensions.  4-Aug-2010 more welding, more use of the Mikdao boiler and stand as a work bench.  4-August-2010 Fabricating the lifting beam.  23-July-2010 Lower bearing supports welded on.  Lower assembly  Upper assembly  7-July-10 A post with the screw temporarily assembled, put in place for show and tell later in the week.  Using a machined plug to locate the upper bearing keeper on the upper bearing plate.  Clearing a space around the stairs, I position the legs on the corners to see how things are shaping up.  Here's how it looks from the bottom up.  I am using a piece of 7 inch C-channel sitting on top of the boiler on the yellow engine stand as a welding table. Sure beats welding on the floor on my hands and knees!  A temporary assembly to position the upper bearing support plate for tack welding.  A Vee-block to hold the pipe, magnet to hold the lower bearing bracket and using the screw and brearing to keep it in line with the top bearing plate.  Top shot of the upper brackets tack welded on.  The base plates are tack-welded to the bottom of the pipes.  It was a pain grinding the ends square so the pipes would stand up (mostly) straight.  Once again, the engine/boiler stand is pressed into service to hold the 93  23-June-10 workholding clamps to weld the baseplate.  The 4 bearing spaces and the leftover stock.  The spaces will be machined to final thickness in another operation.  Parting off the bearing spacers  16-June-10 Bill cleans the burr off the stock  9-June-10 Finished Lower bearing support brackets and upper bearing keepers.      19-May-20 The big Rahn-Larmon lathe works again. Here Bill had turned down the welded portion smooth for the lower bearing seat, then cut the shoulder for the sprocket.  We used a blown up cutoff tool to make the scriber.  A closeup of the hand ground scriber  Here's how we used the scriber and the line made on the shaft (inside the circle)  19-May-10 We needed to set the length of all four screws to an equal amount, so we resorted to a 'poor mans' height gage. We scribed a line on all four screws with a HSS scriber on the top of the shelves.  After I turned the gas bottle on, turned down the heat and wire feed rate, things got a lot better! The shaft extension has been welded to the screw. Next step: machine the extension to size.  What a SMAW (MIG) weld looks like without cover gas. Utterly terrible and unacceptable!  I use a couple of bearings at the other end so the screw will roll when I turn it.

This setup turns out to be overly complex. The screw will roll with little resistance just setting in the vee-block.  I end up threading a nut on the end of the screw to keep the bearings from falling off, but really a large wash would suffice.  The welding roller setup, using the boiler as a workbench.  My solution to providing a clamp grounding point which still allows me to roll the screw.  The end of the screw with threaded receiver and beveled end for welding.  Here are the shaft extensions threaded onto the end of the screw, ready for welding.  12-May-10 Bill rough machines the screw shaft extensions. He wishes my little Clausing lathe would move the carriage and compound simultanously to produce a 45 degree cut, but the angle is more like 25 degees. He cuts the 45 degree bevel by hand.

Here's a shop tip: we want the bevel go from the 1-1/8  24-April-10 It's not much to look at, but here is the stairwell with completed modifications and a sand-texture paint job. The ceiling is now squared off (not sloping), the sand swirl texture applied and a finish coat of  Using a hole saw to cut a 1  I work on the the lower bearing support bracket.  After putting threads on the other end of all four the acme rods, Bill prepares the end for a shaft extension I have to weld on. We will screw the shaft into the rod, then also weld it.  I had to use the fly-cutter to finish the bore to size.  I used a hole saw to cut the 2  The Joist brackets are drilled using the same vise-stop arrangement.  I worked on the other parts. Here I'm drilling holes for the floor mount.  I'm all proud that I used a vise stop for quick locating of the other plates, making it quicker to drill the holes.  The 7/8  Turning down the end of the rod to take the thrust bearings using a tool holder my brother gave me.  We have 5 feet of rod hanging off the end of the spindle. Since we don't want that to whip around bending or breaking things, Bill made a close fitting aluminum collar.  It's a snug fit in the spindle, but a looser fit on the threaded rod. The collar hold the rod nicely. Unfortunately, this outboard end of the spindle is slightly bent, so the rod wobbles anyhow.  31-Mar-10 Using a dial indicator with a large button back to center the threaded rod in the 4-Jaw chuck. As we rotate the chuck, the indicator moves off the thread top, requiring us to move the carriage.
Page 2 of 3 Next page